Django and Paris Part II
Published in Vallarta Tribune
By Christie Seeley
vallartasounds.com
In September I took a trip I had wanted to take for some time. I wanted to visit some significant places in France where Django Reinhardt lived, played and created his incredibly beautiful music. A trip of this nature runs the risk of falling short of one’s expectations. For that reason, I decided to have none. I hoped to absorb feelings but did not expect to experience real personal encounters. My first evening in Paris changed everything. Looking through listings on a jazz site I use, a name popped out—Simba Baumgartner playing Jazz manouche at a club on the left bank of the Seine called Monk at the Taverne de Cluny. At first I thought it a coincidence but soon learned he indeed was the great grandson of Django Reinhardt, grandson of Lousson Baumgartner, Django and his first wife Bella’s son. Bella had remarried and he took the name of her husband. My daughter who was visiting from California and I headed over for a marvelous evening of music in a lively atmosphere. Simba and his trio were wonderful. It was a very intimate venue and much of the music was from his new CD which stays faithful to Django but with Simba’s own embellishments. All the musicians were top notch! In Paris I was able to catch many great shows but none quite as impressive as he was due to his superb talent and the purpose of my trip.
After a visit to Nice where Django played through the years and participated in the very first Nice Jazz Festival in 1948, I came to Samois Sur Seine, the last home and the resting place of Django Reinhardt. I came without plans. I knew they held a grand festival each year in Django’s honor but doubted I would see anyone connected with his life as he passed away in 1953. On my first walk from my airbnb down to the Seine, I spotted a plaque on a house and discovered it was the house where he had lived. I had planned to look for it but there it was. Then appeared a gentleman with his dog and we started a conversation. Informed of my mission he offered to show me the house. The man was grandson of Django’s great friend in Samois sur Seine, Fernand. The family owned the home and also the bar/cafe where Django took his tea in the morning before fishing and spent his days often playing billiards with neighbors, Chez Fernand. My new acquaintance, Raynard, told me of their friendship and I learned Chez Fernand had changed hands but his family owned a very special Italian Restaurant next door called K. Django’s home had gone through some changes but it was impressive to stand in the rooms he and his family had occupied just steps from the river where he fished and a block from where he spent his leisure hours.
On my second day in Samois I took a walk early in the morning to the old cemetary located very close to my apartment to pay my respects to Django. It took me awhile to locate his tomb, but once there, there was no question. I was surprised that so many members of the family’s names were engraved on the tomb. I believe the tradition of family graves is common in France. Certainly the other tombstones displayed the names of many family members. Various groups had decorated the tomb with lovely memoirs of Django and his music but what most moved me were two guitar pics placed on the tombstone. I wished I had something significant to leave him but hoped my fondness and admiration would suffice.
That evening I wandered down to the river again hoping to at least have a glass of wine at the restaurant now owned by a yound man named Piere that had once been Chez Fernand. Piere’s place while simple on the outside was beautiful inside the restaurant. A fire burned in an oversized old fireplace and the tables were imaculately set with beautiful old china and crystal. I ordered a red wine and was offered a red from Beaune. I had not realized how close we now were to the Burgundy area. I decided to stay and enjoy the fresh fish the restaurant was known for. I was the only guest and my service was perfect but inobtrusive. The cod was the best I have ever sampled. The view of the Seine was peaceful. I will return tomorrow night, maybe for the oysters. At every turn this town becomes more magical to me.
I will return to California in a couple of days and soon be back in Puerto Vallarta where a friend and I are working diligently on an upcoming project we hope will be a thriller. Stay tuned!
Published in Vallarta Tribune
By Christie Seeley
vallartasounds.com
In September I took a trip I had wanted to take for some time. I wanted to visit some significant places in France where Django Reinhardt lived, played and created his incredibly beautiful music. A trip of this nature runs the risk of falling short of one’s expectations. For that reason, I decided to have none. I hoped to absorb feelings but did not expect to experience real personal encounters. My first evening in Paris changed everything. Looking through listings on a jazz site I use, a name popped out—Simba Baumgartner playing Jazz manouche at a club on the left bank of the Seine called Monk at the Taverne de Cluny. At first I thought it a coincidence but soon learned he indeed was the great grandson of Django Reinhardt, grandson of Lousson Baumgartner, Django and his first wife Bella’s son. Bella had remarried and he took the name of her husband. My daughter who was visiting from California and I headed over for a marvelous evening of music in a lively atmosphere. Simba and his trio were wonderful. It was a very intimate venue and much of the music was from his new CD which stays faithful to Django but with Simba’s own embellishments. All the musicians were top notch! In Paris I was able to catch many great shows but none quite as impressive as he was due to his superb talent and the purpose of my trip.
After a visit to Nice where Django played through the years and participated in the very first Nice Jazz Festival in 1948, I came to Samois Sur Seine, the last home and the resting place of Django Reinhardt. I came without plans. I knew they held a grand festival each year in Django’s honor but doubted I would see anyone connected with his life as he passed away in 1953. On my first walk from my airbnb down to the Seine, I spotted a plaque on a house and discovered it was the house where he had lived. I had planned to look for it but there it was. Then appeared a gentleman with his dog and we started a conversation. Informed of my mission he offered to show me the house. The man was grandson of Django’s great friend in Samois sur Seine, Fernand. The family owned the home and also the bar/cafe where Django took his tea in the morning before fishing and spent his days often playing billiards with neighbors, Chez Fernand. My new acquaintance, Raynard, told me of their friendship and I learned Chez Fernand had changed hands but his family owned a very special Italian Restaurant next door called K. Django’s home had gone through some changes but it was impressive to stand in the rooms he and his family had occupied just steps from the river where he fished and a block from where he spent his leisure hours.
On my second day in Samois I took a walk early in the morning to the old cemetary located very close to my apartment to pay my respects to Django. It took me awhile to locate his tomb, but once there, there was no question. I was surprised that so many members of the family’s names were engraved on the tomb. I believe the tradition of family graves is common in France. Certainly the other tombstones displayed the names of many family members. Various groups had decorated the tomb with lovely memoirs of Django and his music but what most moved me were two guitar pics placed on the tombstone. I wished I had something significant to leave him but hoped my fondness and admiration would suffice.
That evening I wandered down to the river again hoping to at least have a glass of wine at the restaurant now owned by a yound man named Piere that had once been Chez Fernand. Piere’s place while simple on the outside was beautiful inside the restaurant. A fire burned in an oversized old fireplace and the tables were imaculately set with beautiful old china and crystal. I ordered a red wine and was offered a red from Beaune. I had not realized how close we now were to the Burgundy area. I decided to stay and enjoy the fresh fish the restaurant was known for. I was the only guest and my service was perfect but inobtrusive. The cod was the best I have ever sampled. The view of the Seine was peaceful. I will return tomorrow night, maybe for the oysters. At every turn this town becomes more magical to me.
I will return to California in a couple of days and soon be back in Puerto Vallarta where a friend and I are working diligently on an upcoming project we hope will be a thriller. Stay tuned!