A Musical Getaway to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle and Sayulita
By Christie Seeley
vallartasounds.com
After beautiful sail with friends and the marvelous staff of Catamaran Christina along the southern Nayarit coastline, I suddenly felt a strong pull to revisit the picturesque towns of the area. It certainly helped that two of my favorite bands were playing dinner shows on the weekend at the Tree House Bar in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. The unequaled Gypsy Rumba/Latin Fusion band Media Luna was scheduled for Saturday night, and the fiery Flamenco group Tatewari was to play on Monday. Whereas I had been a regular visitor to the area last year, events had kept me away, and I had not been able to visit Alfredo and Marichuy's newly relocated venue in La Cruz on Coral #68 until now. It was about time!
On the spur of the moment, I arranged an Airbnb in La Cruz and one in Sayulita for Saturday, Sunday, and Monday. It had been too long since I last visited Sayulita as well, so I decided on a somewhat more complicated but equally satisfying itinerary, including both enchanting towns.
Saturday, I headed up the coast to Sayulita by bus. It was easy to catch the bus in front of Walmart and enjoy the beautiful scenery as I progressed toward the Pueblo Magico and surfers' paradise that is Sayulita. I chose a bungalow (Palapa Chile) on the north end of town on a lovely tranquil garden. The place advertized a quiet location with mosquito screens for windows and a morning serenade of roosters as its primary amenities. It also boasted an easy walk into the center of town. Just the atmosphere I was seeking.
I Arrived in Sayulita at around noon, just on time to get a table at my favorite restaurant in Sayulita, Don Pedro. Located in an inviting Palapa on the beach Don Pedro is an extraordinary spot with a great atmosphere and excellent cuisine. My favorite is their outrageously authentic Salade Nicoise that rivals that of the Castle Plage in Nice, France. The grilled artichoke and the freshly made tapenade are the magic ingredients. From the comfortable outdoor restaurant, you have a perfect view of the surfers and bathers and the broad expanse of the Bay. I ended my superb meal with an expresso and headed to my accommodations to rest up for the evening.
The show was to begin at 7:00, so I arranged a taxi to take me to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle about 1/2 hour away. There I was greeted by Alfredo Jimenez and many familiar faces as we arranged ourselves in their new space at the base of the giant Huanacaxtle tree for this incredible show by Media Luna. The minute they hit the stage, we knew we were in for a treat!
The arrangement of the new venue gives the audience an unobstructed view of the stage and musicians. The acoustics are perfect. Martin Hertz and Antonio Martinez handled the audio, and the new lighting system lent a pleasant atmosphere to the performance. A marvelous rendition of Paco de Lucia's Entre Dos Aguas featured excellent guitar work by Caleb and Jair Cabrerra and cousin Gibran Monzalvo Cabrerra and an exciting drum solo by Dani Choi Renteria. Following, they played one of my new favorites Gypsy Flame by Iranian/Armenian American composer Armik Dashchi. Luis Badillo on bass and voice treated us to an uplifting Que Bonita es Esta Vida, celebrating life, family, and community. Sulvey Rosales, the new addition to the group, thrilled the crowd with traditional Mexican pieces and Leonard Cohen's Hallelujah. The entire evening was a great success.
I returned to Sayulita to a festival going on in the soccer field across from my Airbnb. The music was deafening and constant, with an abundance of the ever-present tuba. It lasted until 4:30 in the morning! So much for my peaceful getaway. But the day on the beach awaits me, and my spirits high. This beautiful little town does not have a reputation for quiet. The local population equals the young tourist crowd with its festive spirit that seems to be always in the air. I am off for coffee and a beautiful sunny day. Tomorrow I will head down to La Cruz again to hear another of my favorites, Tatewari, perform at Tree House Bar, where I first got to know the group well. Life is full of adventure and beautiful music if you invite it in.
You can read more about these and other groups I follow and find a calendar of many of their events on my website www.vallartasounds.com. Visit us and get out and hear more music!
By Christie Seeley
vallartasounds.com
After beautiful sail with friends and the marvelous staff of Catamaran Christina along the southern Nayarit coastline, I suddenly felt a strong pull to revisit the picturesque towns of the area. It certainly helped that two of my favorite bands were playing dinner shows on the weekend at the Tree House Bar in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. The unequaled Gypsy Rumba/Latin Fusion band Media Luna was scheduled for Saturday night, and the fiery Flamenco group Tatewari was to play on Monday. Whereas I had been a regular visitor to the area last year, events had kept me away, and I had not been able to visit Alfredo and Marichuy's newly relocated venue in La Cruz on Coral #68 until now. It was about time!
On the spur of the moment, I arranged an Airbnb in La Cruz and one in Sayulita for Saturday, Sunday, and Monday. It had been too long since I last visited Sayulita as well, so I decided on a somewhat more complicated but equally satisfying itinerary, including both enchanting towns.
Saturday, I headed up the coast to Sayulita by bus. It was easy to catch the bus in front of Walmart and enjoy the beautiful scenery as I progressed toward the Pueblo Magico and surfers' paradise that is Sayulita. I chose a bungalow (Palapa Chile) on the north end of town on a lovely tranquil garden. The place advertized a quiet location with mosquito screens for windows and a morning serenade of roosters as its primary amenities. It also boasted an easy walk into the center of town. Just the atmosphere I was seeking.
I Arrived in Sayulita at around noon, just on time to get a table at my favorite restaurant in Sayulita, Don Pedro. Located in an inviting Palapa on the beach Don Pedro is an extraordinary spot with a great atmosphere and excellent cuisine. My favorite is their outrageously authentic Salade Nicoise that rivals that of the Castle Plage in Nice, France. The grilled artichoke and the freshly made tapenade are the magic ingredients. From the comfortable outdoor restaurant, you have a perfect view of the surfers and bathers and the broad expanse of the Bay. I ended my superb meal with an expresso and headed to my accommodations to rest up for the evening.
The show was to begin at 7:00, so I arranged a taxi to take me to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle about 1/2 hour away. There I was greeted by Alfredo Jimenez and many familiar faces as we arranged ourselves in their new space at the base of the giant Huanacaxtle tree for this incredible show by Media Luna. The minute they hit the stage, we knew we were in for a treat!
The arrangement of the new venue gives the audience an unobstructed view of the stage and musicians. The acoustics are perfect. Martin Hertz and Antonio Martinez handled the audio, and the new lighting system lent a pleasant atmosphere to the performance. A marvelous rendition of Paco de Lucia's Entre Dos Aguas featured excellent guitar work by Caleb and Jair Cabrerra and cousin Gibran Monzalvo Cabrerra and an exciting drum solo by Dani Choi Renteria. Following, they played one of my new favorites Gypsy Flame by Iranian/Armenian American composer Armik Dashchi. Luis Badillo on bass and voice treated us to an uplifting Que Bonita es Esta Vida, celebrating life, family, and community. Sulvey Rosales, the new addition to the group, thrilled the crowd with traditional Mexican pieces and Leonard Cohen's Hallelujah. The entire evening was a great success.
I returned to Sayulita to a festival going on in the soccer field across from my Airbnb. The music was deafening and constant, with an abundance of the ever-present tuba. It lasted until 4:30 in the morning! So much for my peaceful getaway. But the day on the beach awaits me, and my spirits high. This beautiful little town does not have a reputation for quiet. The local population equals the young tourist crowd with its festive spirit that seems to be always in the air. I am off for coffee and a beautiful sunny day. Tomorrow I will head down to La Cruz again to hear another of my favorites, Tatewari, perform at Tree House Bar, where I first got to know the group well. Life is full of adventure and beautiful music if you invite it in.
You can read more about these and other groups I follow and find a calendar of many of their events on my website www.vallartasounds.com. Visit us and get out and hear more music!
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